Wednesday, July 20, 2011

NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Lat: 41 29.8N / Long: 071 19.8W

After a 20 hour sail, the arrival in Newport was a nice contrast to New York City: It's very neat and clean and we met the colonial charm of New England as well as a far more pleasant climate. During the day we had warm temperatures with a light breeze and refreshingly mild nights for a healthy sleep.

Founded in 1639 by William Coddington, Newport at first was refuge for people being persecuted for their religious belief. Even in the new world there were witch hunts! Here are some of the oldest churches in America, as well as the oldest synagogue founded by Sephardic Jews who were persecuted in Spain.
After its founding, Newport could soon compete with the port cities of Boston, New York and Charleston, because it benefited from the so-called 'triangle trade' (import of slaves from Africa to the Caribbean, transportation of sugarcane from the Caribbean, the production of sugar and rum in Newport and export to England).

Fire brigade

Historic Newport house

Newport houses
In Newport everything is more relaxed than in NYC, it is the Mecca of sailing in the United States. For Gerd it’s was a great joy to see all the beautiful old sailing yachts. On the first day we visited the New York Yacht Club - the leading Sailing Club of America. It was founded in 1845 by New York businessmen who believed Newport to be an ideal place to sail on weekends and to spend the summer. Of course, many business relationships have been maintained and established.


New York Yacht Club

View from „Members Only“- Terrace
We went on a bus tour and learned about the so-called 'Gilded Age'. A term for the heyday of the American economy of about 1876-1914, which followed the Civil War in the wake of industrialization making a few like the Astors, Vanderbilts, Rockefellers and Mogans extremely wealthy families. The term "Gilded Age" was introduced by the socially critical Mark Twain, and refers to the fact that this time, although on its outside was a time of economic boom and technological progress, but it was also a time of great poverty and corruption, especially in the cities.

Newport gives an example of the extent of wasteful affluence of these elite families: Located along the coast road, on large plots of land they had built their residences. The "cottages", as they were described by their owners in self-irony, with their crystal chandeliers, marble staircases, gold and silver plated rooms, could easily compete with the grandeur and lavish equipment of leading European castles. The richest of the rich, the "Gilded 400" lived in their palaces only two to three weeks each summer and spent millions for their various parties and dinner invitations. The rest of the year the ‘Newport Mansions' were empty.

This ludicrous era gradually came to an end as the personal income tax was introduced in the USA and by the political consequences of the First World War II as well as the Great Depression. When one thinks about it - maybe in a somewhat more moderate way - parallels can be found to the excesses of the "Big Bubble" and the lavish lifestyle of some of the banking executives and hedge fund managers in recent times.

Today the mansions belong of the Newport Preservation Society, which keeps them in shape for the public. What we particularly liked was that the majority of the people working there were older folks; all very fit, friendly and very much enjoying their job.

Rosecliff Mansion, which belonged to the heiresse of a silver mine in Nevada. Her mansion was modeled after the Grand Trianon at Versailles and was the backdrop for some scenes from the movie "The Great Gatsby".

The entrance portal

View from the garden to the main house.

With it the Vanderbilt family wanted to outdo the other "cottages":
The Breakers
, a Renaissance palace with 70 rooms, columns and arches.

The comparably modest residence of the Astor family

highlight of our stay in Newport was the invitation of our friends, Pete and Marshall Lawson. Both are very well-known sailors, regularily invited to head the raceing committee of the most important international regattas.

Peter picked us up with his motorboat. He had brought along his Labrador Missy, who later jumped overboard and swam the last 100 meters to the home dock.
Marshall and Peter live in a cozy house in the woods on a plot of about six acres (24,000 sqm); which can be quite the norm in rural areas in America. If they want to get to their mailbox, they must walk two miles (3.2 km) ...
We are delighted that Peter and Marshall will be sailing with us in a few weeks.


Missy ...
wants to swim ....


... she jumps...in the background: the house of the Lawsons


...And there she is in the water!

Marshall with Peter's daughter Sara and granddaughter Jolie as well as Missy
and Bassethound Loulou.

Gerhard and Peter

The view from the house - a pure idyll







GOOD TIMES IN THE BIG APPLE

Lat: 40 42.8N / Long: 074 01.1W

We arrived after a pleasant three day sail from Bermuda to New York City (NYC). We found our way to the North Cove Marina and were quite impressed how it was nicely tucked in between the tall buildings of the World Financial Center and Battery Park City.
This area has immensely changed after the 9/11 disaster and bears a very pleasant atmosphere. Only 300m apart from ground zero, we could actually see from our berth in the marina the building process of the Freedom Tower, the replacement for the former Twin Towers. The whole new setup there is going to be very impressive.


On our way to NYC ‘the Lady’ is there to greet us.

North Cove Marina under The Freedom Tower (2nd building from the right). It is planned to be 1776 ft high; in memory of the signing of the United States Declaration of Independence in the year 1776.

“The Sphere” originally stood in front of the World Trade Center. Although damaged during the tragic events of 9/11, it endures as an icon of hope. The sculpture was placed in Battery Park as a memorial to all who lost their lives during the terrorist attacks.
View from Rockefeller Center over Central Park
During our stay in the Big Apple we had decided to focus on the museums – the traditional ones as well as the newer ones. And it was fascinating. Every day we visited a different collection. Although it is known that private sponsorship is much more common in the US than in Europe, we were again truly impressed by the sheer volume of it. Our recommendations: The Frick Collection in the former mansion of industry tycoon Henry Clay Frick as well as the “Neue Galerie” which opened in 2001 and specializes in Austrian and German Art of the turn of the 19th/20th century. Those who want to be challenged by contemporary art of the more extreme should visit the “New Museum” in the Bowery.

Museums we visited

The MoMA-beast


The Guggenheim- an all time classic
After the museums we treated ourselves to a lovely lunch in one of the in-restaurants. Our recommendation: The “Mark-Restaurant” by Jean Georges Vongerichten in the Mark Hotel on Madison and 77th. Superb cuisine and all the NY socialite ladies nibbling on their lunch, discussing their holidays or social events and possibly their latest face lifts. 

In the evenings we just walked around, discovering lower Manhattan. This whole area has become quite interesting to stay. Years ago it was run down and even dangerous. Now lots of new restaurants and bars, shops and galleries as well as recreational areas made it great fun to see and experience. We observed that the people in New York seem to have no time at all; they work hard and then they go out running at every time of the day or night.
This time, no shopping involved! As the summer sales were on, it wasn’t fun to stay in the crowded shops. Although we did set foot into the holy halls of Stuart Weitzmann and Barnes & Noble and did of course leave with some prey …

On our last day we rented a car and drove out to the Hamptons. Indeed we understand why people like to spend their time there. The houses we saw were exquisite as well as the long white beaches. Real estate prices are immense, it starts at a few million and goes up to 30 million US$ and more - the sky is the limit.

With German horse-power to the Hamptons

Montauk Beach

Montauk Beach

Affordable house in the Hamptons
We left North Cove Marina after nine days and headed for Newport, Rhode Island - the most renowned sailing area of all USA. Like an American Porto Cervo. Regine could have stayed in NYC forever, but Gerhard was happy to be at sea again.

Leaving the North Cove Marina

Goodbye Big Apple!

Approaching a Bridge on our way out.

Will we make it?

Made it!

Our next stop is Newport, Rhode Island