Saturday, September 10, 2011

STORIES ABOUT SAILING, LOBSTERS AND and "IRENE"

Lat: 44 16.3N / Long: 068 18.4W
Lat: 44 22.4N / Long: 068 46.4W

On our trips through the waters of New England, we had beautiful sailing among the islands in shallow seas with speeds between 10 and 12 knots and steady winds.
The only thing that complicated our sailing experience were the many "Lobster Buoys" which were exposed to hundreds along the coasts resembling a real minefield.

The minefield of unloved buoys


The buoys are attached to baskets that are exposed on the seabed at a depth of up to 330 feet in order to catch the popular New England lobster. The fishermen place the baskets completely arbitrary, so that for a big yacht like the Zefiro and her helmsman to maneuver through them seems more like a skiing slalom than a sailing trip.

Fisherman with lobster cages
In order to avoid a collision with the unpopular buoys one person on each side of the ship had to watch out and give the helmsman signals. To navigate these areas in the dark is nearly impossible. But sometimes even careful steering didn’t help and then it was time for the "rope cutter": A very useful device mounted on the screw preventing that the lines get wrapped around the propeller.

Rope Cutter with its prey


Indulging into the tender and delicate lobster meat always helped us to quickly forget the suffered hardships.

Maine lobsters...

...can be bought everywhere on site...

...and taste heavenly.

During our travels we also saw whales. Unfortunately, the shy marine mammals were always a bit too far away in order to shoot a nice photo (after this experience, we finally bought a better camera). Once close to Cape Ann, we had several humpback whales on the starboard side. They jumped into the water and turned their massive bodies gracefully into the air. Our careful approach did not seem to bother them. That changed when a "whale watching" boat came up behind us at high speed: Unfortunately it cased them away.

Humpback whale - unfortunately not a good shot


Hurricane "Irene“ and Smith’s Cove by Castine


Following the weather forecast, we had decided to leave Newport and head up to Maine, about 400 miles north of New York. The way up there was very difficult: because of thick fog and many lobster buoys we made slow progress. Other boats could only be made out with horn signals. After 28 hours we finally arrived at the idyllic Smith’s Cove by Castine; many other yachts had also dropped anchor there, seeking shelter.

Now it was necessary to get Zefiro storm-proof: The sails were covered and wrapped with lines, the fenders were prepared out in case other anchor dragging boats should hit us. We also brought out a second anchor. On our arrival the weather was very cloudy and gray, in the course of the afternoon the wind was growing stronger, reaching up to 30 knots, accompanied by heavy showers. A grim apocalyptic mood set in. In the night during which according to forecast we were to expect the worst part of the storm, we all held an anchor watch, following the gusts which were meanwhile coming up to 50 knots. Over the radio we heard that out at sea, the waves built up to 26 feet. Fortunately, everything went well and our anchor was holding tightly; as were those of the other yachts.

The next morning greeted us with sunshine and for the first time we could enjoy the beauty of Smith’s Cove. We went ashore and took a walk. Irene had knocked down many trees, branches were broken off but in general Maine was spared. Irene had directed herself further than expected into the country, up to Vermont. In Newport and the surrounding areas Irene had left 650,000 people without electricity and water supply. That evening we went ashore with our crew to celebrate the adventure we had overcome with a nice dinner.

After all this our route took us again south to Gloucester. All of us were looking forward to it because we are already very familiar with this town, we know where to find everything we need and we have won friends there.

Before „Irene“

After „Irene“

Town of Castine

Castine Lighthouse
 
The former fort of Castine: It protected the colonists against the Indians, then the early Americans against the British, as well as the British against the Americans and it protected all of them against the Dutch ....

THE NEWPORT BUCKET AND "IRENE"

Lat: 41 29.8N / Long: 071 19.8W

From Nantucket we went back to Newport, Rhode Island in anticipation of the Newport Bucket Regatta . It was the 25th anniversary of this renowned sailing competition in which every ambitious sailor would like to participate. We had attended with Zefiro its offshoot in the Caribbean the St. Barth Bucket Race earlier this year in spring.
For the anniversary celebration in Newport, the organizers had created a very nice program and with the help of Annie Gardner we had a great twelve-member racing team, of which alone five ladies and gentlemen (including Annie) had sailed the America's Cup. But then everything changed, because then came "Irene":

After a great trial sail with said team three days before the race, upon which Gerhard commentated that it was one of the most impressive sailing of his life, we returned to the marina to find out what we had feared: Because of the upcoming hurricane "Irene" the race had been canceled for safety reasons! We were disappointed, but there was little alternative, because the threats for crew and yacht and were too big.
In perfect weather conditions we left Newport heading up north under engine; it was a peculiar feeling to know that such a violent storm was approaching behind us and of whose devastating force President Obama emphatically had warned his countrymen on television.



Team Zefiro

Annie Gardner & Gerhard
Eric Witte (li) and John MacGowan

Gerhard and Jacon Mayer

John Barnitt - „JB“

Sarah Cavanah (left) & Christy Prior
 
Mike “Koko” Komar (in front) & Scotty Mawhinney 

Tom Whitmore


Rope Wizzard „Johnny Mac“



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NEW ENGLAND'S BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS & FISHING VILLAGES - Part 3. Nantucket

Lat. 41 19.0N / Long: 070 05.0W

From Cape Ann we took course to the famous whaling island of Nantucket. Because of its little houses paneled with gray cedar shingles and entwined with climbing roses, its inhabitants call their island affectionately “The Little Gray Lady in the Sea”.

For two centuries Nantucket was famous for being a center for whaling which also made the island rich. The island served as template for the writer Herman Melville’s classic “Moby Dick”. When the whales were nearly extinguished, Nantucket’s importance declined and after a long sleep, the little gray lady was rediscovered beginning of the 20th century as a tourist attraction. In the 21st century Nantucket belongs (together with the Hamptons) to the most expensive neighborhoods across America. Nowhere are the prices for land so high.

We were lucky: New acquaintances in Gloucester introduced us to a nice gentleman from New York, who has a Swedish friend living in Nantucket with her two dachshunds. She drove with us around the island and this way we could see a lot more than from board Zefiro.

This nice ,chain reaction' in new acquaintances is something uniquely American, what we have learned to appreciate. The people are very hospitable and open to encounters. They like to invite their friends’ friends. And if the new acquaintance doesn’t turn out to be a deep friendship or lifelong pen pal, so be it – what counts is the moment.


Nantucket, …

“The little…

…Gray Lady…

…in the Sea“.

Nantucket Town

Nantucket Beach

Nantucket Friends: Martha, Tom and Ingela

Friday, September 9, 2011

NEW ENGLAND'S BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS & FISHING VILLAGES - Part 2. Cape Ann/Gloucester

Lat: 42 35.2N / Long: 070 40.1W

From Martha’s Vineyard it was off to Cape Ann. This region, about a ½ - ¾ hour's drive northeast of Boston, is a real gem: With a lot less tourism than the peninsula of Cape Cod, or the islands of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket (more on that later), Cape Ann is remarkable in every respect.
Beginning of the 17th Century fishermen settled and founded the town of Gloucester. Due to the abundant catches of cod it soon had the world's largest fishing fleet. This has now shrunk considerably and the most of the remaining fishermen have switched to the lobster catch. The hard and enduring life of the Gloucester fishing community is described impressively in the Hollywood thriller "The Perfect Storm" starring George Clooney in the role of the brave fisherman Billy Tyne Both the devastating storm, as well as the pub, where part of the action takes place existed, actually.

In the late 19th and early 20th Century, Boston's wealthy families discovered Cape Ann as an ideal place for the summer. Many large houses which have now been partly converted into museums bear witness of these times. As a contrast to the magnificent buildings, a variety of artists moved into the former little fishermen's cottages along the rocky coast. "Rocky Neck" - is one of the most famous artists' colonies. A variety of galleries in Gloucester and the surrounding communities testifies to the fact that even today a lively creative work is to be found there.

During the days when Gerhard was in Europe, Regine and the crew had a great time in Gloucester. Zefiro anchored off the remote Eastern Point Yacht Club. The bay of Gloucester like all New England harbors which we visited (except NYC), is very clean and calm – without any swell, so that even when it was raining and the wind was howling, Zefiro was safe and sound like in Abraham’s bosom.

We took lots of provision in Gloucester, as the quality and the prices – especially for seafood - were outstanding. We bought new crew clothes for the crew and the crew performed a variety of minor repairs on the Zefiro.
The people we met were all very friendly, relaxed and helpful. When Gerhard returned, he was surprised how many friends Zefiro had made in such a short time.


Gloucester, Massachusetts

Eastern Point Yacht Club

Fishing boat in „good company“


Zefiro was a welcome attraction for the tourist boats

We had friendly visitors calling...

…were invited to see the most beautiful houses  …

…and gardens.


Our friend Martha’s farm being a highlight …

 ... with a pretty pond…


… and a horse paddock.







We also hosted parties onboard Zefiro: Martha Tattersall (left) and 
Josie Gardiner

f.l.t.r.: Ian (Josie’s husband),Robin (Martha’s husband), Paul Gaucher, the Commodore of the Eastern Point Yacht Club, and his friends 
Adrianne from Palm Beach and Peter Niemitz

NEW ENGLAND'S BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS & FISHING VILLAGES - Part 1. Martha’s Vineyard

Lat: 41 23.2N / Long; 070 29.8W

First, an apology is due for all those who have been waiting for an update of the blog and also complained. The reasons for this: After our arrival in Gloucester / Cape Ann in late July, Gerd left the Zefiro and flew for almost three weeks to HH and Cyprus. Regine and the crew remained on board and enjoyed wonderful days with much activity and distraction ...

After our stay in Newport, we sailed to Martha’s Vineyard, a beautiful island, about eight kilometers off the Cape Cod peninsula. In the 17th century it received its name after Martha, the daughter of its discoverer Bartholomew Gosnold and the wild vine growing there. The little townships of the 2,590 square km island soon became whaling harbors and supply stations for the East Coast shipping industry. Today it’s the holiday retreat of such prominent VIPs as President Obama and his family, as well as for the beautiful & rich. They love the Vineyard because of its gorgeous beaches and its warm water temperatures which are claimed to be the highest along the East Coast of New England. On said beaches Steven Spielberg shot scenes of his blockbuster “Jaws”.

We anchored in front of Edgartown, which is considered one of the most elegant towns of New England. Reminiscences of the former whaling town are the old captain’s houses, lined up one after the other along the coast road. Although there are a lot of tourists in Edgartown, it has nothing kitschy to it. The houses are all well maintained and in the lavish gardens you can find the most wonderful hydrangea bushes – a sight which accompanied us continuously along the coast of New England. As we learned, hydrangeas thrive particularly well in the humid sea air and thereby require a minimum of care.




Zefiro anchoring in front of Edgartown with ...

… beautifully maintained gardens…

…and houses…