Saturday, August 25, 2012

SOUTH PACIFIC - FRENCH POLYNESIA Part 2 - TAHITI - MOOREA

Lat: 17 35.4S / Long: 149 37.4W
Lat: 17 30.1S / Long: 149 49.2W



French Polynesia began for us with the mountains of the Marquesas Islands, and continued with the atolls of the Tuamotu Archipelago. The next group of islands, which we were now heading to, was the "Society Islands" - Iles de la Société.

The pleasure is always great while cruising when a fish,
like this 17,6 pound mackerel, is caught.
And a few hours later, it ends up as a delicious sashimi on our plates
Tahiti was the first destination of our trip to the Society Islands.

Tahiti is the largest and most populated island of French Polynesia
And wrote significant history:

In three great expeditions between 1769 and 1779, James Cook filled the map of the Pacific so comprehensively that future expeditions were reduced to join the dots. Among other tasks Cook was sent to the Pacific by the Royal Society to observe the transit of Venus as it passed across the face of the sun. On the most Northern cape of the island he built a lighthouse and named it Pointe Venus.

The lighthouse on Point Venus: From there, Captain James Cook
observed the transit of the planet Venus.

It was Cook who named the island group "Society Islands", in honor of the Royal Society of London - One of the most respected scientific institutions of the time, still existing today and acting as an advisor for the British government.
By giving the cape its name the famous captain maybe also had in mind to honor the Polynesian beauties. As their exotic looks, their serene, gay, open and welcoming nature made them the complete opposite of the European ladies of the time. It is said that it was their embraces and intimacy that the mutinous sailors of the HMS bounty were longing for…

To commemorate this memorable event a monument
was set up on Point Venus.

Tahiti is the economic and administrative center of all island groups. And Papeete is in every respect a Western city, with shopping streets, traffic chaos and a large marina. But the island has more to offer than a return to the supposed civilization.

Majestic mountains, covered with lush vegetation,…


…impressive waterfalls,…

 …archeological sites of religious worship, …

….deep valleys falling into the arms of the lagoon, or
cradling a damn at their base.

Our next stop was Moorea, Tahiti's sister island, 12 miles away, still well within sight. Moorea has wonderful bays. We decided to drop anchor in Cook's Bay.

Already the bay’s entrance indeed is a breathtaking sight.

The bay literally slashes into the island, presenting its green heights in a striking contrast to the clear blue water of the lagoon.

Many inns and hotels have settled on the island; the more exclusive ones mostly have bungalows on stilts perched over the clear water of the lagoon.

We took another long and exhausting hike, this time to the “Three Coconut Tress Pass” about 3940ft high. We crossed a creek, walked through a bamboo grove, discovered symbols of indigenous nature as well as exotic plants and covered quite a distance of altitude from our starting point. Having reached the top, we were rewarded with beautiful views of the rich vegetation to the bay.

Bamboo forest
Indigenous symbolism
What is to later become a fern bush    

View from the “Three Coconut Trespass”



Our next stop is Bora Bora. Stay tuned!


Thursday, August 9, 2012

SOUTH PACIFIC - FRENCH POLYNESIA Part 1 – MARQUESAS - TUAMOTOS

Lat: 08 55.2S / Long: 140 95.9W
Lat: 16 03.9S / Long: 145 37.4W



First some general information:
French Polynesia is an overseas territory of France consisting of four distinct island groups in the southeast corner of Oceania. They are located approximately 17.100 km (10,625 miles) away from Metropolitan France. The island groups constituting French Polynesia are the Society Islands, the Tuamotu Archipelago, the Marquesas Islands, and the Austral Islands.

They cover a huge ocean surface of some than 4 million square kilometers (2,5 million square miles), which is the same area as Europe. The combined land area of all including islands is a little over 2414 square kilometers (1,500 square miles), and the overall population is 78 percent Polynesian, 12 percent European, and 10 percent Asian- mostly Chinese.

Although known to Spanish and Dutch explorers as early as the sixteenth century, it was not until the eighteenth century that the islands came into scientific prominence with the explorations of Captain Cook and his brave men. But it was only after the ill-fated breadfruit expedition of Captain Bligh on HMS Bounty in 1788 (who doesn’t remember the wonderful Hollywood movie with Marlon Brando as the mutineering and passionately love-struck first officer Fletcher Christian) that the islands became unwillingly hosts of a multitude of explorers, whaling ships, and missionaries.

Zefiro’s first stop after the big Pacific crossing from Galapagos was the island of Nuku Hiva, belonging to the Marquesa (“Land of Men”). Since Gerhard disembarked to attend business in Asia and Europe she stayed at anchor in the bay of Taiohae for two and a half months waiting for us to continue.
We arrived 27th of July after a 50-hour trip by plane. Considering the distances, this is actually fast in comparison to the time people in former days would have taken to reach this far corner of the earth.


Nuku Hiva and its sister islands are all covered with steep mountains and … 

are inhabited by wild horses….


…goats, chickens and pigs …

…and indeed it’s lush vegetation offers a magnificent botanical experience... 



We walked 4,5 km (2.8 miles) from Daniel’s Bay to the Hakaui Waterfall 

It is 350 m high, the third biggest in the
world dropping into a natural pool below.

Unfortunately we didn’t visit the isles of Fatu Hiva and Hiva Oa. Fatu Hiva is the island where the renown Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl chose to live in a simple and natural Robinson Crusoe-kind of way together with his then wife Liv, only to later be expelled by hostile natives. He wrote a book about this experience. Hiva Oa was where the French expressionist painter Paul Gauguin came to spend the rest of his life capturing the island’s exotic beauty in his world famous oil paintings. 

Talking about island beauties: Visiting a local dance event in Nuku Hiva we came to see what is symptomatic for all of French Polynesia… 

…They do still exist these island beauties, 
but indeed the conservation period is quite short… 

…because after a certain age they do tend to put on some weight….


From Nuku Hiva we sailed to the Tuamoto Group – a collection of many low atolls. After 550 nm (1000 km/633 miles) we had a very exciting entry into the atoll of Fakareva with 6.5 knots current against us resulting into big waves. We stayed for two nights at anchor and visited the lovely and colorful church.



Church visit French style



Our next stop was the Tetamanu atoll. Each atoll encircles its own lagoon with a ring of coral; beneath the crystal clear water of each are spectacular underwater gardens with fish of every imaginable size, shape and color…


The Tetamanu atoll is therefore one of the most famous diving areas in the world…


…with the raster chubby Napoleon fish…
…the colourful parrot fish…

… and many other beautiful species… 

…including blacktip-reef-sharks, which luckily are friendly


Our next stop will be the island of Tahiti, the largest of the Polynesian Islands, with Papeete as its administrative capital.

Stay tuned!

click here:


PLEASE ALSO SEE OUR BLOG ARCHIV WITH FURTHER REPORTS!
(at the bottom of the blog)