TRIP THROUGH THE PANAMA CANAL

Lat: 09 22.2N / Long: 079 57.0W

Look at the foot, the color of the water and the amount of fenders

Some History

Emperor Charles V proposed a connection between the Atlantic and Pacific by a canal already in 1523. The gold-greedy Spaniards sought of ways to bring their prey from Peru safe and fast to Spain.

Only much later the first attempt was made: After the financial success of the Suez Canal which opened in 1869 in Egypt, it was believed that a canal connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans would be just as simple to apply. Under the presidency of the 73-year-old Count Ferdinand de Lesseps, who had already been responsible for the Suez project, a lock-free canal should be built across the Isthmus of Panama with a length of 73 kilometers. In the construction period from 1881 to 1889 the French had however, more difficulties than in Egypt: rain-induced landslides poured nearly as much material into the canal as had been removed; yellow fever and malaria killed about 20,000 workers. On no other known construction had there been so many dead. In 1888 the French went bankrupt and the entire building project was sold for 40 million U.S. dollars to the United States.

The American engineers realized that building a system of locks would be faster and cheaper. And in order to prevent diseases, first the living conditions of workers had to improved.

On 15 August 1914 the parcel vessel "Ancona" transporting 200 passengers was the first vessel to pass the canal. In 1967 the control of the Panama Canal was handed over to the Panamanian government under the condition that the Canal Zone has to remain politically neutral.

Facts about the channel

The canal is 81.6 km long.

It runs between the cities of Colon on the Atlantic and Balboa on the Pacific coast and leads through the Gatun dam.

For the passage a pilot must be taken on board.

There are 300 pilots employed by the Canal Company

In Panama, some 9,000 people work in management, operation and maintenance of the channel.

There are three locks with all in all 12 lock chambers:

▪ Gatun Locks

▪ Pedro Miguel locks

▪ Miraflores Locks

The locks are designed in pairs to meet traffic.

The 12 lock chambers have the following dimensions:

▪ Length: 305 m

▪ Width: 33.5 m

▪ Depth: 26.3 m and can all accommodate 101 000 cubic meters of water.

The filling time is 8 minutes per chamber.

The 46 floodgates are 25 meters high and weigh over 730 tons.

Coming from the Atlantic side, in order to overcome the Continental Divide (isthmus) the ships passing through the locks have to be raised 27 meters to the level of the Gatun Lake (about nine meters in each lock).

101 000 m3 of water is lost to the oceans at a rate of (26,700,000 U.S. gal; 22,200,000 imp gal) by downward cycle lock.

With its 423 Square kilometers the Gatun Lake is the largest man made lake.

A boat needs to pass 37,8 Kilometers (20 nm) from one end of the lake to the other.

The extension was started on 3 September in 2007 and is to be completed by 2014/2015.

Our trip through the canal

We were fortunate that after only two days of waiting time in the marina of colon we were able to drive through the canal. Since yachts are not given preferential treatment, many sailing boats have to wait up to 14 days.

The boat was surveyed and checked whether it had stashed enough diesel and could meet the requested minimum cruising speed of 8 knots. As the sailing boats always drive through the channel at night, our drive-through began by 7 pm when the pilot came on board and we were on our way to the Gatun locks. The Canal Port Captain determines whether the yacht goes center chamber or sidewall into the lock. In our case a 21-meter motor yacht was assigned to us. We had to take her portside and we as the larger boat had to pull her with us through the canal.

Entering the Gatun Locks. A large container vessel went into the lock with us

In front of this closing floodgate is Tito, an agent from the Panama Yacht Club whom we can
highly recommend. He is very helpful and dedicates his spare time helping children in need

SY Zefiro and alongside MY Longshot

The journey through the three Gatun-locks until the Gatun dam took us two hours and then the pilot disembarked.

We were lucky because we could anchor in the Gatun Lake and continue our journey at daylight the next morning. At 8.30 clock, a new pilot came on board and we crossed the dam. Unfortunately the weather was somewhat hazy with an overcast sky.

It took ten years to fill the manmade Gatun Lake with rainwater. Little townships had to be deserted. Today it looks like a natural lake surrounded by jungle

At 11.30 am we reached the Pedro-Miguel-Locks and this time we were lucky to be alone in center chamber. Two smaller sailing boats went with us through the locks.

Look at the color of the water

Another curiosity  on our way: The crane “Titan” was a reparation payment from Germany 

to the US after the 2. World War. The US sold “Titan” to the Panamanian government for 

1 US $. Panama upgraded Titan for several million Dollars throughout the years; it is the 

only crane in the canal, which is strong enough to lift the heavy steel gates of the locks

Around 20 000 people are working at the new canal. The engineers are from Belgium,
Netherlands and France

Entering the Miraflores Locks

Gear trains mounted on both sides of the locks ensure a fast and safe passage. Depending
on the size of the ships, four to eight trains haul the ships through the locks or stabilize it
against the currents in the lock chamber at the time of the water inlet and outlet

The Panama Canal is a tourist attraction.
At the Miraflores Lock is a restaurant with lot of spectators

Thanks to good preparation and good work of the crew and the helmsman the Zefiro came safely through all three locks and at 1.30 pm in the afternoon we were already admiring Panama City's skyline.

The city reminded us of Singapore - a moist, muggy climate, many modern high-rise
buildings embedded in tropical greenery and a large number of shopping malls

The latest building development: The ‘Museum of Biodiversity' designed by the architect Frank Gehry, who also built the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain. By all respect but to us it
looked like a Caribbean town hit by a hurricane

Please click:

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We are now looking forward to our next adventure: the Galapagos Islands. Stay tuned!

PLEASE ALSO SEE OUR BLOG ARCHIV WITH FURTHER REPORTS!

(at the bottom of the blog)

SAN BLAS ISLANDS

Lat: 09 34.9N / Long: 078 52.6W

In the beginning of the 16th century when the Spaniards came to what is now known as Panama, they saw the Indians wearing gold jewellery. What followed is one of the greatest tragedies in human history.

At the time of the Spanish invasion the Cuna Indians lived scattered in the center of Panama in loose tribal federations. Under the Spanish occupation they began to organize themselves in tribal associations. During the three centuries of Spanish rule they were displaced more and more from their land until they finally retreated to the Atlantic coast - first to a coastal strip about 200 km long and 20 km wide. Later, however, they retreated even more, back to the altogether 400 islands. By doing this they avoided the missionary work of the Spanish priests and were able to protect and preserve their ethnic independence and culture.

As the subsequent Panamanian government tried to civilize the Cuna in the beginning of the 20th Century, they withstood the pressure and vehemently attacked in 1952 the Panamanian police stations. It was only through the influence of the Americans who stationed a warship in the bay, when the government moved its troops back without a fight. (Why the Americans stood up for the Cuna is unclear perhaps because in retrospect they were ashamed to have treated the Indian tribes of their own country so badly?)

 From literature we learned that the islands are extraordinarily beautiful, and that the Cuna Indians insist on their cultural independence - which wouldn’t mean that they don’t enjoy certain comforts of civilization: There are a handful of electric lights, sometimes even water lines, radios, as well as schools and hospitals. It was also written that part of the Cuna men go to work on the mainland.

Everywhere it was pointed out that they were very xenophobic and only tolerate tourists if they would get money from them for their handicrafts. Only if you pay can you take pictures of them. Otherwise, the Cuna Indians don’t want to deal with you. Before it gets dark, you have to leave the islands.

Coming from Cuba with light winds from astern sailing partly under spinnaker and Code Zero and arriving after four days we were indeed quite curious. And we could confirm that the St. Blas Islands are a paradise.

And they still are the little havens - small islands, only some inhabited with palms,
white sand beaches and a protective reef around them

But there are also bad sanitary conditions on the inhabited islands, the waste is
disposed right outside the front door

The people in the more densely populated islands, made a dreary impression on us. We had the feeling that due to increasing tourism they have been alienated from their traditions. They seemed somehow lost. It seemed as if they no longer lived in their world, but also haven’t arrived in our life having sold their souls to tourism.

They spoke to us in English or Spanish, wanted to know where we came from, guide us around, bargain and dispose of our waste. There was a museum, several murky pubs and some shops with bad rubbish - all entirely designed to participate in tourism.

Museum

Cuna women about 150 cm (4.9 ft) tall. Photo-cost: two US$. The legwarmers are made
of different coloured strings of pearls. After puberty they are bound around the lower legs
and arms of the women, because the Cuna like lean calves and wrists. Who doesn’t...

Photo cost: zero US$ as shot from out of the hip

With their canoes made out of hollowed tree trunks the Cuna came alongside of the Zefiro and offered us molas, lobsters and fruit. In return they asked us for Coca Cola

At the very beginning of our stay Venancio came to us on board and presented us with his molas - stitched application, all masterpieces of the finest craftsmanship with the most beautiful patterns. They were not cheap, depending on the fineness of the embroidery, the price rose. We bought several of them hoping not to have been ripped off. And it turned out that we were lucky: None of the applications that we got to see later on were as beautiful. Regine is not, however going to sew the molas on her t-shirts but we will frame them and hang them at home instead.

Venancio, 46 years old with his merchandise. He calls himself
„Mola Master’’ which indeed he is. All his molas are signed

The Cuna women wear them as parts of their upper body wear; also popular as tourist
souvenirs. This mola took three months of work

Perhaps the Kuna have reached the contemporary state of many ethnic peoples: Influenced by the "American Way of Life'' and the MTV culture, their appearance especially of the young people is similar to that of their peers around the world. Be it in in Japan, Africa or Paris. They wear skin-tight jeans, baseball caps and basketball shirts and Adidas sneakers, listen to pop music and love Coca Cola. However parallel to this phenomenon of globalisation, they like to eat their native cuisine and they are raised in their traditional beliefs, as were their ancestors. A young man told us that in a few days, a meeting of "Saila'' (village elders) of all the islands was going to be held on his island, his eyes shining in anticipation. Just as a Scot would look forward to a reunions of the highland clans...

Please click:

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In short we’re getting serious: Our next stop is Colon, Panama. Then it will be Adios Atlantico! Buenas Dias Pacifico!

PLEASE ALSO SEE OUR BLOG ARCHIV WITH FURTHER REPORTS!

(at the bottom of the blog)

CUBA – ENCOUNTERS WITH SOCIALISM Part 1

Lat: 23 05.0N / Long: 082 30.1W

After four and a half days of sailing with light winds we reached Hemingway Marina 
located in the West of Havana early in the morning

At the marina’s entrance we were already expected by an Open air office and a 
four-hour clearing in process took its course

First the medical doctor came on board, after him came the dog for finding drugs- and explosives, then the veterinarian and the inspector of the agricultural department. After them came customs and the clearing in team.

Government officials in the cockpit

All were friendly – also the dog. The actual inspections of the boat were more than quick and superficial and as soon as the different parties were under deck they were happy to receive a drink and a gift…

 ...whereas the dog was more than content with a sausage

This wasn’t going to be our only meeting with socialism.

For the next day sightseeing was on our schedule and indeed Havana has lots to offer in that respect:

Discovered by Spain's “Official Island Discoverer'' Cristobal Columbus in 1492 and taken in the possession of the Spanish crown, Havana became New Spain's capital and main shipyard. For the period of eleven months the British had taken rule of Cuba. But they then traded it against parts of Florida, which at that time was in Spanish hands (which it is again nowadays)

In the late 18th to early 19th century, Cuba was the largest sugar-exporting nation. Witnesses of this prosperous period are the great palaces and boulevards built by the so-called "sugar barons'' in a neo-baroque style with marble floors and pillars. In the beginning of the 20th century, elaborate Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings were added to the majestic buildings.

Since 1982 many of the neglected and run-down buildings of Havana Vieja, the historical part of 500 years old Havana, are gradually being restored with funds from Unesco, which declared this part of town a World Heritage Site, and is now bringing back its former glory, making Havana the most pompous and worldly metropolitan than any other city in the Caribbean.

He was there before us

In the 1930s and 1940s amusement moved big style into the country with American millionaires, gamblers, Mafia gangsters and politicians who brought their money to Havana to enjoy what at home was prohibited: Alcohol, drugs, sex and gambling. Havana became the hotbed of the U.S.

A monumental witness to this era: The Hotel Nacional de Cuba. A meeting point of the mafia bosses and stars like Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner and Nat King Cole

Mobile witnesses of that past are the most beautiful American classic cars in candy colours, which still dominate the street scene in Havana today. These old beauties may be a joy to car freaks; to the Cubans they are harsh reality because they literally can’t afford to buy themselves a new one. Therefore every car driver is also a mechanic and the Oldtimers are kept going with motors of Russian cars or with spare parts of other car brands.

Plymouth 1957  & Ford Fairlane Convertible 1958

 Buick 1948 & Plymouth 1948

 Havana is the biggest car museum of the world - Ford Model T 1928

Buik 1958

We had great fun getting to know Cuba’s highly praised nightlife with its tempting musical rhythms. We visited the world famous Tropicana Nightclub. Hollywood stars of the 40ies and 50ies, American tourists and the Mafia enjoyed its shows and casino.

At the time there were direct flights from Miami, then directly to the casino and
back home the next morning

Together with our crew we had a great evening with Cuban music
in the style oft ‚Buena Vista Social Club’

The Cuban population is a mix of 40% White, 20% Black and 40% Mulattos.
The latter often quite appealing – therefore Gerhard had to pay five Dollars for this picture…

...when he ran out of money these two dames had to do, they only asked for two Dollars

When we asked to be brought to places where the Cubans go out for dinner and dancing we were told that there was no such thing, they simply don’t have enough money to do that. This is symptomatic for the island: When the victorious revolution led by Fidel Castro and Che Guevara in 1959 put an end to the U.S. puppet regime of the dictator Batista and all foreign investors and many Cuban entrepreneurs were driven out, the country took a different course ... (see Part 2)

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CUBA - ENCOUNTER WITH ERNEST HEMINGWAY

One of the few Americans, who in Cuba is respected also from official side and who has great impact on Cuba’s tourism, is the author Ernest Hemingway (1899 – 1961).

La Vigia - the sight

He came to the island with his third wife journalist and correspondent Martha Gellhorn and bought the villa “La Vigia” in 1940 about 20 minutes by car southeast of Havana. We visited his home which was converted into a museum and were impressed: The vast compound with swimming pool, watchtower and living quarters is being kept up to a standard just as though the author was still living there.

The comfortable living room with its original furniture decorated with hunting 
trophies, countless books, documents and memorabilia.

The desk at which classics of world literature were written like „For Whom the Bell Tolls’’ 
and  „The Old Man and the Sea’’

Hemingway had a strict working schedule: He wrote early in the morning then
he swam for an hour in the pool and had lunch. In the afternoon he drank

This is Pilar, Hemingway's deep sea fishing boat. During World War II, Hemingway searched with her for German submarines. Pilar was outfitted (at the cost of the CIA) with communication gear and had minimal weapons, which included a Thompson sub machine gun and hand grenades. Most accounts state that any effort to attack a submarine would have been futile. Other accounts of these patrols imply that they were a farce and that he did them in return for extra gas rations 
and immunity from Cuban police for driving drunk

We were told that Hemingway met Fidel Castro only once at the Marina Hemingway while attending a fishing competition.

After his death his fourth wife Mary Walsh donated the house to the Cuban government – with all its content: furniture, books, letters and manuscripts (the latter to the great dismay of American libraries and universities who complain that in Cuba the documents are not sufficiently evaluated and attended to).

Of course we also visited Hemingway’s favourite bars in Havana.

La Bodeguita del Medio - famous for its mojitos (cocktail made from rum, fresh mint and lime)

Das El Floridita – famous for its Daiquiri-Cocktails (crushed ice, rum, lemon).
It placed a bronze statue of the author where he had his favourite seat at the bar