Lat: 09 34.9N / Long: 078 52.6W
In the beginning of the 16th century when the Spaniards came to what is now known as Panama, they saw the Indians wearing gold jewellery. What followed is one of the greatest tragedies in human history.
At the time of the Spanish invasion the Cuna Indians lived scattered in the center of Panama in loose tribal federations. Under the Spanish occupation they began to organize themselves in tribal associations. During the three centuries of Spanish rule they were displaced more and more from their land until they finally retreated to the Atlantic coast - first to a coastal strip about 200 km long and 20 km wide. Later, however, they retreated even more, back to the altogether 400 islands. By doing this they avoided the missionary work of the Spanish priests and were able to protect and preserve their ethnic independence and culture.
As the subsequent Panamanian government tried to civilize the Cuna in the beginning of the 20th Century, they withstood the pressure and vehemently attacked in 1952 the Panamanian police stations. It was only through the influence of the Americans who stationed a warship in the bay, when the government moved its troops back without a fight. (Why the Americans stood up for the Cuna is unclear perhaps because in retrospect they were ashamed to have treated the Indian tribes of their own country so badly?)
Everywhere it was pointed out that they were very xenophobic and only tolerate tourists if they would get money from them for their handicrafts. Only if you pay can you take pictures of them. Otherwise, the Cuna Indians don’t want to deal with you. Before it gets dark, you have to leave the islands.
Coming from Cuba with light winds from astern sailing partly under spinnaker and Code Zero and arriving after four days we were indeed quite curious. And we could confirm that the St. Blas Islands are a paradise.
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| And they still are the little havens - small islands, only some inhabited with palms, white sand beaches and a protective reef around them |
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| But there are also bad sanitary conditions on the inhabited islands, the waste is disposed right outside the front door |
The people in the more densely populated islands, made a dreary impression on us. We had the feeling that due to increasing tourism they have been alienated from their traditions. They seemed somehow lost. It seemed as if they no longer lived in their world, but also haven’t arrived in our life having sold their souls to tourism.
They spoke to us in English or Spanish, wanted to know where we came from, guide us around, bargain and dispose of our waste. There was a museum, several murky pubs and some shops with bad rubbish - all entirely designed to participate in tourism.
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| Museum |
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| Cuna women about 150 cm (4.9 ft) tall. Photo-cost: two US$. The legwarmers are made of different coloured strings of pearls. After puberty they are bound around the lower legs and arms of the women, because the Cuna like lean calves and wrists. Who doesn’t... |
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| Photo cost: zero US$ as shot from out of the hip |
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| With their canoes made out of hollowed tree trunks the Cuna came alongside of the Zefiro and offered us molas, lobsters and fruit. In return they asked us for Coca Cola |
At the very beginning of our stay Venancio came to us on board and presented us with his molas - stitched application, all masterpieces of the finest craftsmanship with the most beautiful patterns. They were not cheap, depending on the fineness of the embroidery, the price rose. We bought several of them hoping not to have been ripped off. And it turned out that we were lucky: None of the applications that we got to see later on were as beautiful. Regine is not, however going to sew the molas on her t-shirts but we will frame them and hang them at home instead.
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| Venancio, 46 years old with his merchandise. He calls himself „Mola Master’’ which indeed he is. All his molas are signed |
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| The Cuna women wear them as parts of their upper body wear; also popular as tourist souvenirs. This mola took three months of work |
Perhaps the Kuna have reached the contemporary state of many ethnic peoples: Influenced by the "American Way of Life'' and the MTV culture, their appearance especially of the young people is similar to that of their peers around the world. Be it in in Japan, Africa or Paris. They wear skin-tight jeans, baseball caps and basketball shirts and Adidas sneakers, listen to pop music and love Coca Cola. However parallel to this phenomenon of globalisation, they like to eat their native cuisine and they are raised in their traditional beliefs, as were their ancestors. A young man told us that in a few days, a meeting of "Saila'' (village elders) of all the islands was going to be held on his island, his eyes shining in anticipation. Just as a Scot would look forward to a reunions of the highland clans...
In short we’re getting serious: Our next stop is Colon, Panama. Then it will be Adios Atlantico! Buenas Dias Pacifico!
PLEASE ALSO SEE OUR BLOG ARCHIV WITH FURTHER REPORTS!
(at the bottom of the blog)
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